Why are these reefs so healthy?

Five lined snappers on Hadahaa house reef

So for four months now I have been living on this beautiful island paradise, and having lived and dived all over the world, and having experienced some truly magnificent things in the ocean, I was originally dubious as to whether this would live up to my high expectations. However when I reflect on my position as Resident Marine biologist and EarthCheck coordinator here, I really do not think it can get much better than this. I really do have the best job in the world!

I often think back to how sceptical I was sitting in a restaurant in London, talking through the job with my predecessor. I probably even gave a little eye role as she talked about how healthy the reef was and how high the species diversity was. However after living here and diving here for all this time I really can say my arrogance was unjust.

After recently watching Greg Stones' Mission Blue TED talk on The Phoenix Island and The republic of Kiribati, it got me thinking about our atoll and islands here in Southern Maldives.

Greg Stone: Saving the ocean one island at a time.

Some Background: Kiribati is an island nation in the central pacific, it like Maldives has many islands spread over a large area of ocean. The Phoenix islands are a group of sea mounts in the middle of this nation  with no inhabitants and 5 days by boat from the nearest airport. Until recently these islands were the largest marine reserve in the world. But in Greg Stones talk, he tells the tales of the flora and fauna before the marine reserve was set up.

Table corals at Hadahaa House reef.
 Photo credits:  ScubaZoo

Table coral Phoenix islands.
Photo credits: National Geographic

From his stories and imagery the only place in the world where I have visited that comes close to this is the coral reefs I have visited within this atoll (Huvadhoo). Having dived all over the world I am still amazed everyday when I jump in the water here to see such a healthy and diverse marine ecosystem. In fact research by the Marine Conservation Society UK and Reef Check found Hadahaa house reef to have the highest percentage coral cover out of all of the reefs surveyed during a nation wide exhibition in 2009. Surveys were carried out in six atolls stretching from Ha Dalluu in the north to Addu in the south.

The coral reefs in this atoll have flourished even though unlike the Phoenix islands these islands have been inhabited for almost 2,000 years. Not only have they been inhabited but commercial and subsidence fisheries have been on-going here for many years. These reefs also see the same threats that other coral reef ecosystems succumb to such as ocean acidification, rising sea temperatures, impact from tourism industry and population expansion.


So my question is: Why are these reefs so healthy?

Under the water villas at Park Hyatt Maldives Hadahaa

Journey to Paradise

Egypt

So I have recently taken a position as Resident Marine Biologist and EarthCheck coordinator at Park Hyatt Maldives Hadahaa and I am keen to share my passion for the marine environment with everyone that I can. But firstly let me tell you a bit about myself. I was born in Cairo, Egypt, and it is fair to say I became a seasoned traveller at a young age moving between countries and continents with my parents and siblings until we settled in the UK.

Snorkelling in Fiji

After finishing school at 18 I decided to take a year out before university and travelled to Fiji to work on a volunteer based marine conservation project. I was already a keen diver after learning to dive with school friends in the Red Sea when I was 16. Living on a beautiful tropical island and diving in the crystal clear waters of the Pacific ignited a passion in me that would go on to mould my future. After spending 7 months in Fiji carrying out daily fish and invertebrate surveys, I went back to the UK to start university.

Researching Whale Sharks (Djibouti)

I began a three year degree in Psychology and Sociology and although I enjoyed my degree a lot I did not feel the same way about it as I did marine conservation. As  a result I spent all of my summer vacations volunteering on marine conservation projects. After my first year of university I travelled to South Africa to volunteer on a great white shark project, monitoring Great White Sharks off Dyer Island (famous for its cape fur seal population and thus Great Whites).

After my second year at university, I made my first trip to the Indian Ocean to undertake my PADI Dive Master training in Seychelles, which was followed by three months working for Global Vision International marine program. After my final year at university I returned to the Seychelles to work on The Marine Conservation Society Seychelles Whale Shark Monitoring program. I worked monitoring Whale Sharks in Seychelles and Djibouti, and combined this with travelling in South East Asia and Australia where I got in as much diving as possible. After spending three years combing working in Seychelles and travelling I returned to the UK to undertake my Masters degree. This further fuelled my desire to conserve and protect the marine environment and led me to the Maldives where I spend my days in the water continually being amazed by how incredibly diverse and healthy this marine ecosystem is.

Hadahaa resident Hawksbill turtle coming up for air on the house reef.

A love letter to a beautiful island

Dear Hadahaa,

What an amazing time we’ve had together, the best of times. I hope someday to find colleagues and corals that I love as much as you. Hadahaa, you have been so much more than a job, you’ve transformed me, powering my passion for nature, laughter, children and food. I’m incredibly proud to be a piece of your puzzle. There will not be one day that I don’t think of the 12% of my life I belonged in the Maldives. Does this makes me 12% Maldivian, seems like more dho?

 

These are just a few of the things that will make me smile when I’m daydreaming about you:

-          Chef Sunil’s gooey chocolate fondant

-          Swimming with wild dolphins

-          Laughing with beautiful children on local islands

-          Stargazing and lazing on the roof of the dhoni

-          Dancing like a mad to boduberu drumming

I’m going away for a while, to be a little closer, to a bigger island on the other side of the world. But our relationship is not over and I’m already looking forward to hearing the words “Welcome back”.

 I know that you know, but I’m going to say it again anyway– I’m really going to miss you.

With love,

Arabella

Holidaying with the Hawksbills

When you live in the Maldives plenty of people are under the impression that you are permanently on holiday. I tend to enjoy being the object of envy so I don’t waste time correcting them (other than pointing out that I’m getting paid for it). But from time to time it’s good to do some work, so I have journeyed to Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi for a short time to spread the love of marine biology and see how I can help with regards to the environment on their island.

The UAE has in recent years taken many new initiatives with regards to environmental care, and we at Hyatt fully support this turn of events. It’s important that we are responsible, ultimately allowing our guests enjoy the natural resources.  

Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi is perched on the edge of a nature reserve, which during the summer months, hosts the critically endangered hawksbill turtles to lay their eggs.  That they still feel comfortable to come ashore just meters from the hotel is remarkable.  Lights, obstacles or noise easily disturbs nesting females; so we must take great care to cater to their sensitivity.

Hawksbill turtles are old friends of mine from the Maldives; they are such regular visitors of the Hadahaa house reef that at least two seem to be resident. Hawksbills are astonishing for many reasons starting with their choice of food; as adults they almost exclusively eat sponges. We think of sponge as a soft and cuddly substance, but that couldn’t be further from the truth. Most sponges are full of needle sharp spines and powerful toxins making them decidedly unpalatable for most creatures. But not the Hawksbill. They have a titanium* digestive system and a hooked beak that allows them to feast on this otherwise untapped food source.  More than just good for the turtles; this is also good for the coral.  Declining turtle numbers is having serious consequences as unrestrained sponges grow over and kill the coral, jeopardizing the future of the entire reef.  

Turtles rely heavily on their instincts, although very lovely, they are not especially bright. The brain is a hungry organ in terms of oxygen demand and since turtles have to relentlessly hold their breath to survive in the underwater world, conserving oxygen is a priority. It turns out; having a tiny brain is not so stupid after all. I sometimes find myself getting jealous of the turtles have an innate ability to always know what to do and where to go. From their first few hours in the nest, they break out of their shell and sense the direction of gravity knowing that they must dig up. Not all the way, because they may have to wait below the surface to sense the temperature of the sand, making sure that it’s night when they make their perilous crawl to the sea. Once again, no instructions needed, they head towards the greatest source of light (which should be the reflection of the moon on the water).  Upon reaching the shore they detect the direction of the waves and automatically swim out to sea. After a few years in the open ocean they manage to direct themselves towards a coral reef to feed so that 20 to 30 years later, they are ready to reproduce. Turtles are able to hone in on variations in the earths’ magnetism and travel hundreds of miles to find the exact area in which they were born to lay their own eggs.  The most remarkable thing of all, this was happening 150 million years before GPS.

* I don’t mean literally- that is biologically very improbable. 

A beautiful hawksbill swooping over the Hadahaa house reef

Look Closely

I’m a girl impressed by size; on a recent trip to Western Australia I was exhilarated by hoards of humpback whales, my first snorkel with a 10 metre whale shark is as vivid now as it was 5 years ago.  In the waters around Park Hyatt Maldives Hadahaa we’re always eager to see the big things, swooping stingrays or giant turtles. But as I’ve matured (a bit), I’ve become just as enthusiastic about the less conspicuous creatures on the Hadahaa House Reef. There’s a delicate beauty in everything that should never be overlooked. Patterns formed by the repetitive symmetry of coral polyps are mesmerizing in themselves. Of course it’s a bit easier to get up close if you’re diving, but that’s not to say that snorkelers miss out if you have your eyes peeled. Here are my awards for less spotted reef creatures with cool names (see previous note on maturity): 

ALGAE CATEGORY

Sailors’ Eyeball - Ventricaria ventricosa  

Photo courtesy of reefguide.org

Winner - Sailors’ Eyeball

Not your stereotypical seaweed, the sailor’s eyeball is a shiny green blob with a mystical radiance. Made of only one enormous cell like a water balloon, it’s a little gem that sits amid the coral rubble glinting at passers-by like a crystal ball.

Rusty Scum Algae – Schizothrix calcicola

Photo courtesy of algaebase.org

Runner up – Rusty scum algae

Although extremely common and essentially just slime, it allows you to see photosynthesis in action; I particularly enjoy popping the little bubbles of oxygen that get trapped under the surface of the mat.

WORM CATEGORY

Winner - Christmas Tree Worm

Look closely at boulder corals and you might spot the beauty queens of the worm world.  Only the spiralling feathery radioles can be seen poking out of their holes. Coming in a variety of festive colours, these perfect mini Christmas trees are used by the worm to absorb oxygen and catch titbits. 

Christmas Tree Worm - Spirobranchus giganteus 

Giant Spaghetti Worm - Reterebella sp.

photo courtesy of reef.org

Runner up - Giant Spaghetti Worm

Keep an eye out for their sticky white feeding tentacles that slink along the reef-floor searching for unfortunate little creatures to ensnare and deliver back to their hungry mouth.  

CRUSTACEAN CATEGORY

Winner - Painted Rock Lobster

 If you look under rocks and overhangs you might spot this elaborately coloured, secretive and delicious lobster.   

Painted Rock Lobster - Panulirus versicolor

 Photo taken at Hadahaa courtesy of Stefan Grimmelt

Hidden Sea Whip Shrimp - Pontonides sp.

Runner up - Hidden Sea Whip Shrimp

Easy to find if you have a good memory, this little chap hardly moves from its marital home within the polyps of black coral. 

Leopard Flounder - Bothus patherinus 

FISH CATEGORY

Winner - Flounder

If “Where’s Wally” was a fish… a supreme master of disguise 

Ghost Pipefish - Solenostomus cyanopterus

Runner up - Ghost Pipefish

Is it a fish? Is it a piece of sea grass?

Very hard to tell.